One of the main reasons for going to New Hampshire was for the climbing. North Conway is known for two ledges, Whitehorse and Cathedral. After setting up our tent, we looked through our guidebook to find the best route to start with. Since Boulderin' Boyfriend and I are on different climbing levels, he usually has to plan around my abilities, especially if it is a multi-pitch climb. So we decided to start with a really easy classical climb called, Thin Air. In fact, it was so classic that there was a line to climb it. When we got to the ledge there was already a group of three climbing (a guide with two clients) and shortly after we arrived another group showed up to climb after us.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshie
When the group before us was on the third pitch we started climbing. Since it was a really easy level, Boulderin' Boyfriend cruised up the first pitch. In fact, I did too. The second pitch was the most fun because it was a traverse, which made it a little more challenging. However, at this point we had already caught up to the climbers ahead of us. From that point on we would have to wait for them at each pitch, although it was a lot of fun. We would talk and enjoy the view while we waited. I loved the climb and even Boulderin' Boyfriend liked it because at the end he was able to climb a 5.11 finger crack and we both ended with a hard 5.8 crack climb.
I'm not as much a fan of crack climbs, because it cuts up my hands and arms. It is much more of a struggle for me and I have to work more on it, since most climbing outside is crack climbing. Maybe since I started with slab climbing, that is why I am better at it, but I like the balance and technique required. Boulderin' Boyfriend loves crack climbing so he always encouraging me to step out of my comfort zone.
Basically our first day of climbing was awesome. We were both pumped at experiencing a great day and we enjoyed a nice campfire dinner. Needless to say we were both excited to climb the next day as we planned a few harder climbs. We started with Turner's Flake, which is a 5.8 wide crack climb. I actually didn't climb it though, because I wanted to learn how to use ascenders. Boulderin' Boyfriend knew that if I learned how to use ascenders then I could follow him up harder climbs, which would be beneficial for him. Basically I would be setting the ascenders on the rope and using them as my handholds while I continued to place my feet on the rock wall. If there was an overhang then I would need to connect foot straps to the ascenders to also use for my footing. With my one practice climb we were ready to start our multi-pitch climb for the day.
We went for the 5.7 Standard Route on Cathedral Ledge. It wasn't as easy as we were expecting because a few of the pitches were dirty and in one spot there was potential for a dangerous rock fall. However, we made it through and planned to end the climb with a classic two pitch 5.11d for Boulderin' Boyfriend while I would use the ascenders. From the beginning I didn't have a good feeling. I should have followed that, but I knew that Boulderin' Boyfriend wanted to try something hard. Plus, he is so good that I never doubt he will do just fine on a climb. So he started the climb and made it safely to the first bolt. However the second bolt was about ten feet up and a fall at that point could have been really dangerous. The wall was full of debris, which made both of us nervous. Maybe no one had climbed this in a while, because it looked really hard.
Boulderin' Boyfriend began to feel anxious so he decided to traverse left onto the climb next to us. It looked a lot cleaner and within his climbing abilities. Once left, he climbed up two bolts only to decide that it was a bit harder than he was hoping for and that he should have stuck to his original route and once again he traversed. At this point he climbed to the fourth bolt and had a slight overhang to overcome. Unfortunately he had one fall, but he made it up and clipped into the anchor. Now it was my turn to use the ascenders.
Everything was fine as I started and I made the traverse left with ease. It wasn't until I realized that I would have to traverse back that I got nervous. I couldn't find solid footholds and the ascenders were throwing me off balance. I knew that once I unclipped the quickdraw from the bolt I was going to swing about twenty feet. Naturally I was a bit nervous and it didn't help that I got one of my ascenders stuck in the quickdraw. I would have to unclip one ascender, which was my anchor on the rope. My anxiety was growing. Boulderin' Boyfriend was very good at keeping his calm and explaining to me what I needed to do, but I freaked out. I guess I just wasn't prepared for that. In my anxiousness I kept talking, "I'm going to swing...I'm going to swing...I'm going to swing." Sure enough, after unclipping the quickdraw from the bolt I took one step and lost footing. I quickly flew through the air for about twenty feet. Thankfully I was prepared and did not screw up the swing by scrapping my body against the wall.
After the rope slowed to a stop, I thought I might cry. I was not having fun and Boulderin' Boyfriend could see that. He tried to encourage me that the hard part was over. There would be not more swinging, it would be straight up from there. However, I was already anxious, which made me really tired and ascenders are not easy to use. I did make it up, but I think I stopped to take a break every thirty seconds. I had to regain my confidence. Oh, and a peanut gallery was watching me from the edge to my left. I was embarrassed that a group of old people were watching me have a meltdown on the side of the wall.
I finally made it to Boulderin' Boyfriend and he helped me clip into the anchor. At this point we both wanted to get off the wall. The next pitch looked easier, yet I was still tense as I leaned back on the hanging anchor. I just wanted it to end. The second pitch was more of a slab climb and Boulderin' Boyfriend was quick. I probably could have climbed it myself, but since I was ready to be done I used the ascenders.
For some reason I was really scared after that day. I decided to use the next day as a rest day. Although, Boulderin' Boyfriend did all the climbs on the Practice wall, I decided not to climb. I wanted to climb, but the combination of fear and laziness set in and it was hard to break. I even struggled to get on the wall on Thursday and I didn't want to climb another multi-pitch climb for the rest of the trip. I feel a little bad about it, because I feel like I submitted to my fear. I still climbed, but only one other really tough climb. I think if I was put in that situation again, I would be much better, because I know what to expect and I almost want to try it again, because I want to prove that I am a better climber than my fear has made me feel. Maybe Boulderin' Boyfriend and I will go back there again and I will get to overcome, or maybe I just need to climb outside again to build back my confidence. Should I admit that I haven't climbed outside since we got home? Well, it is hot here and I had to move...excuses!
Posted by Travelin' Tracy at 1:06 PM
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2 comments:
Just don't fall!
That is always the plan!
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